Eating and drinking in Aetolo-akarnania

With so much coastline in this prefecture, it is no wonder that excellent seafood is the order of the day. Smoked or salted Avogtaracho – a caviar-like delicacy from flathead mullet – is especially good served in tavernas beside the Etolikos lagoon in the Mesologni area. The same goes for the smoked eel and trout dishes served fresh. To be fair, the seafood tavernas all over the coast and the Amvrakikos Gulf are quite good.

On the sweeter side the local honey is delicious, particularly around Nafpaktos, so are the almond and walnut spoon sweets (preserves). Grain products such as local hilopites (pasta) and trahana (cracked wheat and dehydrated dairy used for soup) are also tasty and can be bought from local stores (they are not usually found in restaurants). Nafpaktos also has excellent yogurt and feta cheese, in addition to good wine and strong liqueurs such as tsipouro or tentoura. The latter is made with clove and cinnamon, then served as a digestive someties with ice or soda water.

Many of these products can be bought at the women's cooperative of Nafpaktos in the village of Lykias (+30 26340 38533). This includes jams made from plums, oranges, kiwi, almond, apple, and bergamot as well as more original varieties such as carrot and pumpkin.


For an authentic culinary outdoor experience head to Piges restaurant in Agia Sofia (+30 26440 23570). The French fries are cooked in olive oil, the local coffee is brewed on a traditional stove and the feta cheese is sublime.

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